One project wraps...

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and another begins.

  I've just finished up my Uniform sweater, and it's blocked, drying, and just needs the buttons (which, shockingly, I have!). More to come on that once I've got the buttons on it.

And so I'm on to the next project, Clouds in my Coffee by Elizabeth Smith, aka The Brown Stitch

I am doing this one in Shepard's Wool, from Stonehedge Fiber Mill in Michigan. This wool is amazingly soft and wooly, very light despite being worsted spun. And the milk chocolate (no really, that's the name of the color) color is perfect. (Though I normally take my coffee much lighter than this.)

  I've done my usual pattern prep, where I write out the pattern for the size I'm doing in my own shorthand on a piece of my circa notebook paper to carry along with me. This way I can use tick marks, additional notations, tweaks I'm planning on making, etc. It's like a paper version of the notes section of ravelry. Plus this way I've read through the pattern already, knitted it a bit in my head, made any adjustments I think might be necessary for the way I like things to fit, and theoretically should have no surprises coming my way.

One project wraps...

upload.jpg

and another begins.

  I've just finished up my Uniform sweater, and it's blocked, drying, and just needs the buttons (which, shockingly, I have!). More to come on that once I've got the buttons on it.

And so I'm on to the next project, Clouds in my Coffee by Elizabeth Smith, aka The Brown Stitch

I am doing this one in Shepard's Wool, from Stonehedge Fiber Mill in Michigan. This wool is amazingly soft and wooly, very light despite being worsted spun. And the milk chocolate (no really, that's the name of the color) color is perfect. (Though I normally take my coffee much lighter than this.)

  I've done my usual pattern prep, where I write out the pattern for the size I'm doing in my own shorthand on a piece of my circa notebook paper to carry along with me. This way I can use tick marks, additional notations, tweaks I'm planning on making, etc. It's like a paper version of the notes section of ravelry. Plus this way I've read through the pattern already, knitted it a bit in my head, made any adjustments I think might be necessary for the way I like things to fit, and theoretically should have no surprises coming my way.

secret sweaters

Not really secret secret, at least not now, because they are now in the hands of the recipients, but behold the last minute matching-but-not-matching-at-all fraternal sister sweaters...

So last week I realized that there were two little girls in my sphere who were sorely lacking in handknits.  And I had 4 skeins of Cascade 220 wool--a dark orangey pink and a lighter pink--that were just the right weight, yardage, and colors for two matching but not fully matching sweaters. Oh and I had under a week to make them because the little girls are not local, and I'd be seeing them around Thanksgiving. 

I'm awfully prone to this last minute OH SHIT LET ME MAKE SOMETHING gifting/crafting.  I very nearly decided last week to attempt to bust out a handmade felt advent calendar for the littlest little, but then after a few delirious hours of sketching 24 small Christmassy items, I finally gave up on it. 

But anyway. Because I am not crazy, I started with the baby version.  And because I am crazy, I decided to draft my own pattern.  So voila, the tiny sister of the duo, with a seven spoke yoke (in retrospect, a round yoke would have been better), and twisted 1x1 rib edging tipped in the contrasting color. 

please ignore the shadow of me taking the picture in the lower left corner. 

That was two nights work, if that.  God love baby sweaters in worsted weight yarn. And busting out the two sleeves at the same time on two circulars.   And so while that one sat on my heating vent drying after being washed, I started on her big sister.

This one is because I'm crazy.  I drafted my own pattern again, but this one was round yoke, colorwork (cribbed the chart for the yoke from the lovely Iðunn and tweaked the decreases a bit to suit the yoke depth)

And because it's colorwork, after the ribbing, I cast on a few stitches for a steek and worked in the round. For the non-knitters, steeking is where you knit the sweater in the round, then cut down the front and pick up bands afterwards.  All very easy to write.  A bit harder to man up for when you actually have scissors to fabric. 

pre cutting.  

I asked JBB to take a picture of me cutting, and instead he took a video. So now you can see me cutting the steek stitches from the inside of the sweater with the super sharp embroidery scissors while watching House Hunters on HGTV in my messy messy living room with super messy hair. 

I wound up tacking down the steek stitches/facing after picking up and working the buttonbands.  If it had been for a grown up, I probably would have just left them to felt into the body a bit, but since it's for a little kid, safer to tack that down.

tacked and just waiting on the buttons. 

All the numbers and other nerdy knitting details here, at Ravelry. 

 

Swatchin', again

madelinetosh vintage in chicory, which I like better knitted up than in the skein. Uniform (rav link) by Carrie Bostick Hoge, aka Maddermade.com (planned options? shorter, no shaping, fitted sleeves and shaped collar, inset pockets).

 

Swatchy

Swatchy

love love love these interchangeable karbonz needles by knitter's pride by the by. (Hate the spelling, though.)

All but buttons! And a bit on blocking

I finished the Rhinebeck Sans Serif last night!

DONE!

After once again doing two hours of tubular cast off on the button bands, and spending another hour and a half weaving in all the damn ends.

tubular cast off.  Gorgeous, such a great final finish.  So time consuming to execute.  

Blocked and awaiting closures... Which I EVEN HAVE IN HAND.  What what! I have shocked even myself. 

let's talk blocking for a minute shall we? Once you're done knitting something, you're really not done until it's been blocked. Blocking evens out all those little lumps and bumps and helps smooth out the unevenness of your work. Also some yarns tend to grow or shrink, so what comes off the needles isn't indicative of the final fabric. Blocking can help tame wayward edgings, tweak curling (though never completely eradicate it), and help all those places where you wove in ends visually disappear.

pre-sleeves and button bands, and pre blocking.  compare this to the blocked one above.   the final finished fabric on the blocked one is smoother and more even, lies flat (helped along by the button bands, but still)

I like wet blocking for most uses because it's the easiest and can be the most dramatic difference. It's basically just washing whatever you made. I soaked this sweater in warm water with a dash of Soak wool wash for 15 minutes, drained it, then pressed out the water. Because this is madelinetosh superwash yarn, I spun more of the water out in the spin cycle of my washer. Then I laid it out flat, shaped it, and left out to dry.

Because it's superwash (wool yarn that's been treated to be able to be machine dried without felting or shrinking), and superwash has a tendency to grow unless snapped back into shape with a dryer, when it's mostly dry, I'll probably give it a short whirl in the dryer.  I didn't want the bottom ribbing to pull in that much so I took this opportunity to make sure to gently tug it out a bit. I did want the neckline and the sleeve cuffs to nudge in, so I made sure to not pull those out at all.  

Wet blocking is awesome for shawls and lace because you generally want to pull the shit out of the shawl using pins to hold it in place to open up the lace pattern. 

I also sometimes steam block, where you use steam from a steamer or an iron to saturate the fabric with the steam and gently pull and pat into shape. The thing with steam blocking is that if you have a yarn that's acrylic or synthetic, you can "kill" the fabric with too much steam--this means that you lose all the elasticity and bounce permanently. It can be done on purpose of you want a scarf with a ton of drape, but no body or bounce, but it's generally not a great thing for garments.  If the edgings on the sweater look a little pulled out with the wet blocking, even after the dryer, I'll hit them with a shot of steam and see how they react. 

I block everything except mittens, socks, and most hats.  These things generally don't need blocking in my mind because they're formfitting and will essentially be blocked in wear.  Socks especially.  Lace or drapey hats, or anything that needs to be in a specific shape I block.  

beginner knitters always get frustrated because their stuff never looks as smooth and even as they feel it should. It doesn't look like the picture on Ravelry, or like that sweater that grandma made years ago.  Well, the pic on Ravelry was blocked, and those older knitted pieces look more even than everything else because they've been washed a zillion times and the stitches have all evened out.