handspun

I was finally taking some pictures of the various handspun things I've done for Ravelry, so why not go through them here as well?

(Pretty much all of these are spun S, plyed Z.)

Spunky Eclectic club April '15, Golden Fields on Cheviot

This one was spindle spun. On the left spun semi woolen, using faux rolags, then chain plyed.  On the right spun semi woolen, two ply. It's very soft, but very wooly feeling.

Spunky Eclectic club, Nov 14, Black pearl on Black Merino

The Black Pearl merino is spindle spun, and my first attempt at chain plying.  I actually like it a lot, despite it being slightly over plyed.

Spunky Eclectic Sept 15 club fiber, Squash Blossom on Corridale

Practice 8 oz that I spun on the mini spinner, just messing around.  Some of it is semi woolen spun, some is worsted.  I did two ply here after winding into two plying balls. 

Spunky Eclectic club, Dec 14, Anemone on BFL

aka the fiber in the blog header!  Spindle spun, chain plyed.  Probably the finest spun and most even spin as well.  I'd say this is about a fingering weight.

Spunky Eclectic club March '15, Nebula on Falkland

Very fluffy despite being spun semi worsted weight.  Two ply, and I'm pretty happy with the amount of ply twist here.  Spun on a spindle.

My second ever spin, of green BFL top from Rhinebeck last year.  I can't remember where I got it from though.  A bit heavier than fingering weight, two ply on a spindle. 

Briar Rose polworth top

third ever spin, and probably the biggest amount on a spindle.  I'd say it's about sport weight and three ply on a spindle. From Briar Rose.

Rhinebeck, the aftermath

I finished the sweater, including the buttons, even allowing time to wash and block it!  I'm really pleased with how the sweater came out, especially after blocking.  

Why yes, I DID crop out as much of the mess on the bathroom floor as I could! Thank you for noticing!

And Rhinebeck was perfect sweater weather this year.  My cousin Betsy and her daughter Kristina drove up to meet me at my house and get coffee for fuel, and then I drove us all up the rest of the way.  It was a gorgeous day and perfect for shopping and fiber stuff!  

Rhinebeck! Kristina is not holding fiber, but MAPLE COTTON CANDY.  

First mission, get one of these kickass tote bags!

 I think this was the longest line we waited in all day (neither Betsy nor I have the patience to wait for hours for Miss Babs, gorgeous though the yarn is, or Jennie the Potter), and it was WORTH IT.  This bag is killer, nice heavy canvas, pocket inside and two outside and a ZIPPER!  (Yes, we did collectively "OOOH!" when we saw it zip).  Plus this year's logo is really effing cute.

Then I'd created a list on paper and on a notes app, with a wishlist for specific patterns and yardage/weights required for said patterns.  But my real wishlist was for trying out spinning wheels and coming home with one. 

Readers, I was not disappointed. Behold, the Hansen Minispinner that came home with me as an early birthday present:

Behold the mess in the hallway!

This thing is so damn light and portable! I carried it in said tote bag for most of the day, and I am telling you my purse was heavier (granted, my purse is really heavy with the shit I pack in it). I also looked at a few wheels, but I think that for where I am right now, this sucker is perfect.

I've already spun up and plied 8 oz of fiber from the Spunky Eclectic fiber club.  It's so fast! 

I have to say, I'm SO PLEASED that I learned to spin on a spindle first.  I feel like I have a greater understanding of the mechanics, of  drafting, of all the bits and pieces that go into spinning yarn.  But damn do I love this thing.

I also got a few batts of beautiful fiber from Loop, and some truly gorgeous squishy cormo worsted yarn by Sincere Sheep in soft grey and cream from Carolina Homespun's amazing booth. These are earmarked for Lee Meredith's Triyang shawl--as big as I can make that sucker. 

And while I was Rhinebecking, JBB took the boys to the zoo, and the biggest little wore his blue hoodie (I FINALLY finished and set in the zipper).  A fitting ending, as I bought that yarn for his hoodie last year at rhinebeck. I, of course, still have no decent pictures of it on him. Alas. 

All but buttons! And a bit on blocking

I finished the Rhinebeck Sans Serif last night!

DONE!

After once again doing two hours of tubular cast off on the button bands, and spending another hour and a half weaving in all the damn ends.

tubular cast off.  Gorgeous, such a great final finish.  So time consuming to execute.  

Blocked and awaiting closures... Which I EVEN HAVE IN HAND.  What what! I have shocked even myself. 

let's talk blocking for a minute shall we? Once you're done knitting something, you're really not done until it's been blocked. Blocking evens out all those little lumps and bumps and helps smooth out the unevenness of your work. Also some yarns tend to grow or shrink, so what comes off the needles isn't indicative of the final fabric. Blocking can help tame wayward edgings, tweak curling (though never completely eradicate it), and help all those places where you wove in ends visually disappear.

pre-sleeves and button bands, and pre blocking.  compare this to the blocked one above.   the final finished fabric on the blocked one is smoother and more even, lies flat (helped along by the button bands, but still)

I like wet blocking for most uses because it's the easiest and can be the most dramatic difference. It's basically just washing whatever you made. I soaked this sweater in warm water with a dash of Soak wool wash for 15 minutes, drained it, then pressed out the water. Because this is madelinetosh superwash yarn, I spun more of the water out in the spin cycle of my washer. Then I laid it out flat, shaped it, and left out to dry.

Because it's superwash (wool yarn that's been treated to be able to be machine dried without felting or shrinking), and superwash has a tendency to grow unless snapped back into shape with a dryer, when it's mostly dry, I'll probably give it a short whirl in the dryer.  I didn't want the bottom ribbing to pull in that much so I took this opportunity to make sure to gently tug it out a bit. I did want the neckline and the sleeve cuffs to nudge in, so I made sure to not pull those out at all.  

Wet blocking is awesome for shawls and lace because you generally want to pull the shit out of the shawl using pins to hold it in place to open up the lace pattern. 

I also sometimes steam block, where you use steam from a steamer or an iron to saturate the fabric with the steam and gently pull and pat into shape. The thing with steam blocking is that if you have a yarn that's acrylic or synthetic, you can "kill" the fabric with too much steam--this means that you lose all the elasticity and bounce permanently. It can be done on purpose of you want a scarf with a ton of drape, but no body or bounce, but it's generally not a great thing for garments.  If the edgings on the sweater look a little pulled out with the wet blocking, even after the dryer, I'll hit them with a shot of steam and see how they react. 

I block everything except mittens, socks, and most hats.  These things generally don't need blocking in my mind because they're formfitting and will essentially be blocked in wear.  Socks especially.  Lace or drapey hats, or anything that needs to be in a specific shape I block.  

beginner knitters always get frustrated because their stuff never looks as smooth and even as they feel it should. It doesn't look like the picture on Ravelry, or like that sweater that grandma made years ago.  Well, the pic on Ravelry was blocked, and those older knitted pieces look more even than everything else because they've been washed a zillion times and the stitches have all evened out. 

 

capping the sleeves

Titles are hard, man.  I've never been good at them.

Anyhoo. Let's delve a bit deeper into Sans Serif, and look at the magic of top down sleeve caps.  It's a fucking wonder of knitting and I love them so. 

I first encountered the basics of a top-down, set-in sleeve in knitwear in Barbara Walker's badass Knitting from the Top (affiliate link).  The idea is that instead of knitting the sleeve separately and sewing it into the armscye (or armhole), which is fiddly work and requires easing one curve of a slightly different shape and different length into another curve.  It's not the easiest thing to do if you don't have sewing experience, which I do, and even then, it's still not the easiest thing to do.

But knitting a sleeve into the armhole from the top down allows for a firm but flexible seam that won't pop with the movement of the arm, and uses knitting's unique properties beautifully.  

Essentially, you pick up stitches around the armsyce and then use short rows--where you work back and forth on a small amount of the stitches--to create the curve of the sleeve cap that goes over the shoulder and covers the top of the arm.  

Elizabeth Doherty took this and refined it--specifically the proportions of picking up stitches and the short rows--in her book Top Down: Reimagining Set in Sleeve Design.  

I'm very impressed not only with her written instructions on how to create a top down set in sleeve, but also on how to ADJUST and ALTER a top down set in sleeve.  It's very clear, and wonderfully written. 

picking up stitches along the armscye (armhole)

After marking the center of the underarm stitches and the shoulder seam with removable split ring markers (or yarn, when I lost one of the little buggers), I picked up stitches along the armhole, in the ratio directed by the pattern, and put in additional markers to note where the ratios changed (which handily notes where the short rows begin).

short rows beginning to form the wedge at the top of the sleeve cap

See that white marker? This is the first sleeve, and where I was smart enough to realize that leaving the markers in (instead of removing them as noted in the pattern) would be super handy to note where the short rows begin.  I got cocky and took them out on the second sleeve, messed the bugger up and had to rip it out and redo it. 

I love short rows--they make a little wedge of fabric that over this curved armscye turns the corner of your shoulder.  

Beginning the short rows--about 3 or 4 short rows worked. Note the wrapped stitch, 6 stitches in from the tip of the right hand needle 

inside the sleeve cap in progress, working back across the inside short rows.  That length of blue yarn is the marker I used to note where the short rows began on the picked up stitches

working back along the inside, with a nice shot of the yarn marker where I lost the split ring somewhere in the couch. 

nearly completed short rows.  leaving the wraps intact (instead of picking them up as you work across the final rows) leaves a tidy vertical line. 

The thing with short rows is that if you just go back and forth in your knitting, you wind up with holes.  So you need a method to close up those holes--wrapping the next stitch with the working yarn is the most common way to do it, but it's not always the most elegant. My recent discovery is German short rows, which are NOT wrapped, but a different technique.  If I'm doing short rows to shape a shoulder or otherwise shape my knitting, I go with this. 

BUT: Because this is a sleeve, wrapping is better.  It actually serves a decorative function and makes for a cleaner line--so long as you don't work the wraps when you come to them.  See the pic above? Nice and tidy. 

(also, I wonder what I was watching on tv?)

coming to the end of the first complete round, right at the junction of the underarm and the sleeve cap

And this is where I came to the end of the short row section, at the transition from the picked up stitches from the body, to the picked up stitches at the underarms.  At this point, I worked around a few more rounds, then set the stitches aside on a holder to work on the body.  

 

Rhinebeck sweaters, it's a thing

look, even sleeve caps are done!

Rhinebeck Sheep and Wool is like mecca for east coast knitters.  It's a big festival that features knitting, spinning, weaving, fleeces, animals, herding dogs and all kinds of fiber-related things. Tons of vendors and shopping and lots of folks wearing pretty pretty knitwear that they made!  And for circumstances unrelated to knitting (such as my inability to plan ahead consistently), last year was the first time I'd been able to go. 

Y'all, it was awesome.  I did some advance planning by going through my Ravelry queue and seeing what I wanted to make and what I was missing yarn for, and brought that list of yardage and weights with me.  And I still just bought random gorgeous things that I couldn't walk away from.  And learned to spin, thanks to my awesome partner in crime, my cousin Betsy!

So a #RhinebeckSweater (or, alternately, a #RhinebeckTrousseau).  It's a Thing that knitters attending Rhinebeck do: make a sweater (or in the case of the trousseau, a shawl or accessory) or other garment specifically for Rhinebeck.  Sometimes the goal is to show off the gorgeousness that you can produce or just have something special to make with a specific intent.  

Last year, I was a slacker when it came to timing, plus it was hot out for the end of October, so I grabbed a lace shawlette I'd made the previous year.  It was fine. 

This year, it's going to be Sans Serif.  Which feels like it's a little bit plain, for a Rhinebeck Sweater, but honestly, that's how I dress, and I'd like to wear what I make rather than not.  So I'm ok with that.  I think. 

 And I'm making good progress, which is SHOCKING to me! Look at those sleeve caps done! And the body nearly done!  I even have BUTTONS people.  I am prepared!

Which will probably mean I won't finish, but maybe?

 

let this be a lesson to me

Sans serif continues...

goddamnit.  Also, inadvertent shoe selfie!

So would it be weird to have a hem at the bottom of a sweater with  ribbed button bands? 

It would, right?  Crap, I need to rip back the last inch and half of the sans serif body and start the damn ribbing, don't I?

Until I busted out the measuring tape the other night, I thought I was way behind on the sans serif if I expected to be done by Rhinebeck.  I'd done the sleeve caps (that's a whole separate post that will be forthcoming) and then put the sleeves on hold to finish up the body, since I knew that would be my time suck of a challenge.  As much as I love stockinette, I get bored of the purl rows--if it were in the round and it was just lovely lovely knit for ages, I'd be happy as a clam.  But switching to purl? UGH whine!

So I powered through, but forgot to check the measurments on the sweater I'm attempting to replace--it's slightly cropped. Which means an underarm to hem length of 13"--FINISHED.  

Guess where I'm at with the sweater?  That's right. 13", with no finished edge.

If I were doing a hem, I'd just do a purl row, switch to smaller needles and knit the hem facing and be done with it.  But that's going to be weird with a ribbed band.  

Goddamnit. Ripping back. UGH. 

(note to future self: 3/4 sleeves! 11"! Don't forget!!)


Spinning my wheels

Not really wheels, actually, since I don't have a spinning wheel (YET--that's my big plan for Rhinebeck! I'm coming away from that weekend with a wheel, or espinner). But I am catching up on the list of projects I have in my head, somewhat killing time until I do get a wheel.  There are a few bumps and braids of fiber I'm dying to spin, but that I don't want to tackle on a spindle quite yet. So meanwhile, I'm filling in the gap with some other projects.

chain ply (3 ply) on the left, two ply on the right

Last year, after learning to spin, I joined the Spunky Eclectic fiber club, and so every month I get 8 oz of gorgeously dyed fiber, all different sorts (I signed up for the double option, thus the 8 oz).  I'm a few months behind on spinning some of the fiber, but I just finished up April's Cheviot Sheepswool in the colorway Golden Fields.

Since yellow is rarely my bag--love the color but I can't wear it well at all--I figured I'd experiment and practice with technique a bit here, and tried a semi-woolen spin on the spindle.

The first bump--shown on the right--I spun a two-ply, making faux rolags by tearing chunks off the bump, fluffing them, and rolling them into a little sausage and spinning from that.  I spun as the colors came and stopped and rolled off the cop into a ball about halfway through, spun the rest and then plyed together.  It's a bit barberpoley, and the singles were wildly uneven as I was getting used to the technique (and it was a put down-pick up kind of project), but I'm happy with how the final product turned out.

The second bump--shown on the left--I decided to pull apart and sort by colors and spin the single kinda as a gradient from yellow to white/grey to blues.  With this bit more of fiber prep, I took the opportunity to really pull the fiber bump apart to be more of a woolen prep approximation, and spun from color to color.  To keep the color progression I chain plyed (chained it as I wound it into a plying ball and then added twist--a lot of twist actually).  I beat the hell out of this one in the finishing, and I'm really pleased with how the twist settled and spread out through the yarn.  It's still a bit uneven in thickness, but eh, second time attempting something like a woolen yarn. 

Now I just need to figure out what to make with them.  That's a whole other ball of wax. 

 

it got cold. and rainy. I want soup.

Was it not just two days ago that it was like 80 degrees? And now it's freezing on the east coast.  And drizzly.  And just has that fall chill settling into your bones. I love fall (cause hi, knitting, but no snow to shovel) and so I'm not complaining.  Or rather, I wouldn't be complaining if I could find my damn slippers so my feet weren't cold.  But still. 

So on this cold and rainy day, I present soup. Specifically, leek and potato soup.

No pictures because I haven't made it yet, but I will this evening.  And if I do say so myself, my leek and potato soup is freaking badass.  And easy!  Save for the peeling of the potatoes, which isn't hard, just annoying as hell.

Ok, I lied when I said no pictures.  Maybe no current pictures? This is of a dinner last winter. Please to note the wine, and buttered toast as garnishes.

Methods are key here, amounts less so.  I mean, it's soup.  Just wing it a bit, how bad will it turn out? I like my leek and potato soup pureed, because yum.  But if you want it chunky, skip the pureeing part at the end and just smash it up some more. 

So Ingredients:

  • Start off with some leeks, or one leek plus a few onions and/or shallots.   Leeks make for a milder soup and are more traditional, but an onion isn't going to hurt anything.  If you don't have enough leeks, fill in with onions, they're cheaper.
  • Then potatoes.  Russets are stellar here, but white or red potatoes work fine, as do yukon golds. In my experience you just need to cook the white/red/yukon golds a bit more as they don't break down quite as easily as the russets.  Maybe one or two pounds of potatoes for 4-6 quart soup?  I like a potatoey soup though. 
  • Liquids.  Stock (chicken or veg) is great if you have it, which most folks don't.  Water plus a few boullion cubes is my go-to.  I use a mix of chicken and veg, depending on what I have on hand.  A bit of white wine or dry vermouth comes in handy.  Your traditional vichyssoise is generally made with water, so it's not a problem if that's all you have. 
  • Garnish.  I like dairy, cream, half and half, milk, full fat yogurt, sour cream--they all work on the individual serving level.  I rarely add any to the big pot. Got something green? Chives or basil or something like that?  Fine chop a bit.  
  • Fat.  Butter, duh.  Also olive oil, or a mix of the two.  But come on, BUTTER. Also, if you're not vegetarian, bacon! Chop some up relatively fine, but not fussily so. 
  • Salt and pepper.  I mean, what are you, a heathen?

So how do you make it?

Cut your aromatics. If you're using onions or shallots, peel and slice them relatively thinly.   Start with the leeks: Take a thin slice off the root end of your leeks, and trim some of the tough green parts away from the opposite end.  Then, take your knife and slice lengthwise down the leek shaft, to make two half-cylinders. Give both sliced lengths a good rinse in running water to get most of the grit out.  Then slice relatively thinly into half moons.  Dump those half moons into a bowl and cover with water.  Swish around for a bit to let the remaining grit sink to the bottom.  The half moons will float. 

Grab a pot that holds about as much soup as you want to make. (I warned you it was a loose thing.) For me, I'll probably do a 4 qt pot with a few pounds of potatoes, 2 smallish leeks and an onion or two. Any more than that and I'd bust out the dutch oven instead.

If you're using bacon, chop it fine-ish, and cook on med high heat until the fat renders out.  Otherwise, melt in a chunk of butter and a swirl of olive oil--about 2 tbsp butter at least? Once the foam has subsided, throw in the sliced onion and/or shallot if using.  Using your hands, lift the leek half moons out of the water, and throw them in as well. Don't drain with a colander unless you want to dump your grit back over your veg or pick little itty bitty slices of leek out of the holes.   Give the leeks/onions/shallots a big ass pinch of kosher salt--nearly 1/2 a teaspoon please--and a hearty stir.  Lower the heat to med-low and let cook until translucent, stiffing occasionally, and maybe slightly starting to turn color.

Traditionally you're not supposed to let your aromatics color for this kind of soup. But for me? Color equals flavor so I let 'em brown a bit, depending on how impatient I am and how closely I've been paying attention to the pot.

While they're cooking, peel and cube your potatoes.  You don't need to be neat about the cubes, but smaller pieces cook faster.  So keep that in mind.

Are your aromatics aromatic and soft?  Good.  Crank the heat a bit, and throw in a glug of white wine or dry vermouth, and give a stir. Let it bubble and reduce a bit. Think you want some more of it? Throw in some more. Just let it bubble and reduce and you'll be fine.

Next, put in your cubed potatoes.  Then add your stock or water to hit just about the level of soup you want to make.  Pro tip: don't do what I do nearly every time and add the water then the potatoes, and nearly have overflowing soup.  Throw in your bouillon cubes--I use maybe 6 for a 4 quart pot? And add a bit more salt.  Even with bouillon cubes, you've got potatoes in there. They NEED salt. 

Bring to a low boil, then reduce heat so it is simmering (more for overflow purposes than for burning things).  Cook until the potatoes are falling apart tender, anywhere from 15 to 30 min.  I mean, it's soup, you're not going to overcook the damn things. 

Remove from the heat and puree.  I use a stick blender (affiliate link) because holy crap is that thing awesome and easy to use.  Whizz the soup up, and done.  You can also pour a bit of the soup into a regular blender whizz that, then do some more, etc etc.  Or just spend the $35 at Bed Bath and Beyond and get a stick blender and never look back. 

Taste for seasoning, add salt and pepper as needed. Serve.  

I like mine topped with a plop of sour cream or yogurt and then some chives.  Or some basil oil (whizz olive oil with basil leaves with your stick blender).  Or a glug of half and half and a ton of pepper.  Or some crispy fried shallot rings (or French's deep fried onion rings from the can, don't be proud, those things kick ass). Oh, and buttered toast.  Yum.

The soup keeps well in the fridge, and will pretty much gel into a potato-y sludge when cool, because hi potato starch.  It loosens as it heats up though.  It tends to separate when frozen, which means when you defrost it you need to stir the shit out of it.  And don't freeze if you've added dairy to the whole batch.  It get nasty.